Some places invite you to see more. Russell invites you to do less.
It’s a place where you can leave the map in your pocket, wander the waterfront, linger over lunch and simply enjoy the atmosphere.
One of the pleasures of staying at Treghan Lodge is that Russell is close enough for an easy day trip, yet feels a world away. The journey is simple, the pace is slower, and there is no need to rush.
Our Day in Russell
During our own mid-winter staycation, we decided to spend a day rediscovering Russell.
We left Kerikeri later than planned, arriving around 11.30 am. With another appointment back in Kerikeri that afternoon, we had to leave again by 2.00 pm.
We wandered the waterfront, enjoyed a leisurely lunch at Hell Hole, explored some of the historic streets and soaked up the relaxed atmosphere before it was time to catch the ferry home.
It quickly became obvious we’d only scratched the surface. Next time we’ll allow the whole day.
That’s probably the best recommendation we can give.
Russell isn’t somewhere to rush. It’s one of those places where the enjoyment comes from wandering without a plan.
Getting There
From Treghan Lodge it’s around a 23-minute drive to the Opua vehicle ferry.
The ferry crossing itself couldn’t be easier. Simply drive aboard, enjoy the short trip across the Bay of Islands and drive straight off again at Okiato. Ten minutes later you’ll arrive in Russell.
Parking is easy, with several convenient parking areas close to the waterfront, so you can leave the car behind and explore on foot.
Leave the Watch Behind
If there’s one piece of advice we’d offer, it’s this.
Don’t try to fit too much into a few hours!
Russell rewards curiosity rather than planning. Wander the waterfront, browse the galleries and boutique shops, stop for a coffee, watch the boats come and go, or simply find a bench overlooking the bay.
Some of the best moments come when you’re not following an itinerary at all.
Enjoy a Long Lunch… or Just a Coffee
One of the pleasures of Russell is the variety of places to stop, whether you’re after a coffee, a relaxed lunch or a meal overlooking the water.
On our latest visit we called into Hell Hole, where we enjoyed excellent gourmet toasted sandwiches. Their bagels are also popular and it’s exactly the sort of place that encourages you to linger a little longer.
For waterfront dining, the historic Duke of Marlborough has been welcoming travellers since 1827 and remains one of Russell’s iconic destinations. Nearby, The Gables, one of New Zealand’s oldest licensed restaurants, serves contemporary New Zealand cuisine in a beautifully restored heritage building overlooking the bay.
If you’re looking for coffee or something lighter, you’ll also find welcoming spots such as Butterfish, Hōne’s Garden and Seaside Café, each with its own relaxed atmosphere.
If you’re travelling via Opua, Sage at Paroa Bay Winery is another wonderful option. Set amongst the vines just a few minutes before the ferry, it’s worth considering either on your way to Russell or on the journey home.
Discover Russell’s Story
Russell is one of New Zealand’s oldest European settlements, and its history is woven throughout the village.
Visit Christ Church, New Zealand’s oldest surviving church. Built in 1835, it still bears bullet holes from the Northern Wars, a powerful reminder of the events that helped shape our country’s history.
A short walk away is Pompallier Mission and Printery, one of New Zealand’s finest heritage buildings. Established in 1842 as the headquarters of the French Catholic mission, it offers a fascinating glimpse into life in the Bay of Islands during the early colonial period, including traditional printing and bookbinding.
The Russell Museum, located on the waterfront, is also well worth visiting. Its exhibits tell the story of Māori settlement, early European arrival, whaling, shipping and the development of Russell itself, giving visitors a deeper appreciation of this remarkable place.
If You Have More Time
One of the joys of Russell is that there’s always another reason to stay a little longer.
Flagstaff Hill (Maiki Hill) offers sweeping panoramic views across the Bay of Islands and is one of New Zealand’s most significant historic sites. It was here that Ngāpuhi chief Hōne Heke repeatedly cut down the British flagstaff during the 1840s, an act that became one of the defining events leading to the Northern Wars.
Just a few minutes away, Long Beach (Oneroa Bay) is a beautiful sheltered beach where you can enjoy a leisurely walk, a swim in summer or simply sit and admire the view before heading home.
Looking for even more ideas while you’re staying with us? Explore our Experiences page for cruises, golf, wineries, gardens, walks and other favourite things to do around the Bay of Islands.
Our Recommendation
Although it’s possible to visit Russell in just a few hours, we’d encourage you to allow at least four to six hours, or better still, make a full day of it.
Take your time. Wander through Pompallier, visit the museum, stand on Flagstaff Hill where history unfolded, enjoy a long lunch, browse the galleries and leave room for those unexpected discoveries that often become the highlights of the day.
We certainly will next time.
Russell is just one of our favourite day trips from Treghan Lodge. If you’re planning to explore more of Northland during your stay, discover more personally recommended itineraries in our Slow Days from Treghan series.
Explore Slow Days from Treghan →
Back at Treghan
The return journey is just as easy as the drive over.
Before long you’re back at Treghan Lodge, perhaps with a glass of Northland wine on your private deck, listening to the birds in the gardens and reflecting on a day well spent.
Sometimes the most memorable days aren’t the busiest ones.
They’re simply the ones where you gave yourself permission to slow down.
Continue Exploring
Enjoyed Russell? Discover more of our favourite day trips from Treghan Lodge.
Explore Slow Days from Treghan →
Experience More Of The Far North
Your Far North Escape
Discover Northland by land, sea and air with our signature experience. Enjoy a scenic helicopter flight, Island Getaway cruise, vineyard lunch and three nights in your own private guesthouse.
Discover Your Far North Escape →
Stay a Little Longer
One day in Russell is just the beginning. Extend your stay and discover more of the Bay of Islands and Far North with our Stay Longer offers.